Monday, July 25, 2011

Post #73: Trend Report - A Cameo Reappearance

            Since the days of cave men and wall paintings, we as humans have had a knack for documenting our lives. Whether it be in an idealistic format such as a Romantic painting or as an exposure to the nitty gritty reality of the world in a documentary, the individual has always wanted to make his likeness a little more permanent and lasting. 
            In the world of clothing and accessories, the way that this knack/desire translates most explicitly is the cameo. Cameos date as far back as the 3rd century BC. In Greece the cameo took its most popular forms as signet rings and art. Made of stone (that involved two different colors in layers), cameos most often depicted Greek heroes and gods. As time progressed through the centuries, cameos tended to reflect images of women or loved ones. Typical cameos involve a side-view or silhouette of the face. And while they may have been made of precious stones in Ancient Greece or even when Queen Victoria made them popular in the 19th Century, they are now most commonly carved into shell.
            On Friday, I found a cameo necklace on sale at Club Monaco. Slightly surprised at seeing such a vintage-y item, I picked it up and tried it on. Next thing I knew, I was carrying the weight of one more shopping bag. I wore it all weekend and have no desire to leave it to collect dust in my jewelry box anytime soon. 
            My mother told me that cameos had been a big trend in the 1990s. More than that, some of the cameos that linger around her room date back to the 1920s and beyond. In my opinion, they can class up an outfit in a second, add just the right finishing touch, or give your look an eclectic (vintage) vibe. For years I've been wearing a cameo ring that was made in the authentic manner and came from Old Sturbridge Village. But with the chance sighting of that Club Monaco necklace, I feel a trend coming on...and that trend is cameos. 
            You can wear them as rings, necklaces, brooches, or bracelets (although I have yet to see a cameo bracelet, I would be very excited to hear about any one who has...it could be fantastic. I'm thinking cameos set into cuffs). They can be set in gold, silver, etc. placed on chains, rings, pearls and more. They come in blues, pinks, ivory and different shades. 
            If you're still unsure about the new passion for cameo fashion that lovers of style will be having this Fall and Winter, check out the pictures below. Perhaps they'll manage to spark your fancy. 


This was the necklace from Club Monaco that started this re-ignition of my passion for cameos. The blue on black is a more modern take of the cameo's traditional color balance. The black bow adds something sexy yet prim to the cameo's setting and acts as a softer transition from chain to art.


If you're looking for what a more classic cameo might look like, this is a fine example. The double pearl chain and larger cameo (this time with a more traditional color palate of light salmon and ivory) make this almost-choker something right out of 1928. Speaking of 1928, it's the company that made this piece. "For over 40 years, the 1928 Jewelry Company has drawn on a wealth of designs discovered in many unique, unexpected places. From the vaults of rich European capitals to the antique laden attics of old American estates, we’ve created modern replicas of the most beautiful, exquisite vintage jewelry ever made. The 1928 Jewelry Company was founded by Melvyn Bernie in 1968. Currently, the company has four lines under its signature brand name. The 1928 Brand has sought to provide exceptional value to the fashion savvy consumer who is dedicated to building her vintage jewelry collection with unique accessories. The jewelry in the 1928 collections are designed to respect the details of period pieces while offering fresh design interpretations to fit today’s styles and fashions" (www.1928.com). Personally, I wish there were more companies as dedicated to vintage as this one around. 


The ring that I've worn around for years, is what I'm wearing in the picture above. There is something so delicate and classic about it. And although you can't see it here, it is a charcoal dusty blue with a pearlescent carving. 


Jewelry makers have also taken some liberties with adapting the classic style. As you can see here with this ring, the artist chose an image of a mother holding her child (over the more favored old-fashioned silhouette). A piece like this beckons people to ask about it. 


For those who want the "real deal" with vintage cameos, this came from an antique show that my mother went to in the 1980s. It was made decades before then. My favorite thing about it is the sense of personal history it contains with the inscription on the back. 


And if you just can't get enough of cameos (before you get and wear your own), the video below is pretty interesting. It goes through exactly how cameos (today) are made.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Post #72: Fashion on Film/Something to Note: Thigh-Highs


For the past week I've been catching up on episodes of the ABC Family show Pretty Little Liars. One of the things that I forgot that I loved about this show was the clothing. I don't think I've ever seen four best friends who are all so well-dressed in their own unique styles. While next week, I will definitely write more about these girls, tonight's post refers to Hannah's stockings in the episode "The Bad Seed" in the first season. 
At the very end of the episode, when the girls get up from their table to follow the police officer, Hanna is wearing lacy thigh-high stockings with her outfit. Reminiscent of the G by Guess and Legs Avenue stockings below, these (to me) feel like they belong more in the bedroom than the classroom. However, at the same time, they also feel kind of chic.
Put in your two-cents on the subject by answering the poll on the upper-right section of the screen. 



Monday, July 18, 2011

A Brief Note

Calling all shopaholics who live near or love to go to The Mall at Short Hills: 
There is currently a sale at J. Crew that is absolutely amazing. And if you don't believe me, then maybe you will after I tell you that it involves taking 40% off the final sale price of garments. If you still don't believe me, then let me tell you that I got a $158 100% cashmere cardigan for $25 today (along with a $59 shirt for $6). 
And while we're on the subject of SALES there, Reiss London (yes, Reiss as in the store Kate Middleton loves) is also having a fantastic sale. Who doesn't love $310 dresses that are on sale for $93?
Go forth and take advantage. 

Post #71: Spotted - This Blogger


Spotted in her own home, this blogger documenting her new trench coat from Express (and talking about herself in the third person). To me this look is reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, but with a modern flair, due to having it styled with retro sunglasses and black flats with chain detailing. What I particularly love about the coat itself though is the belt-detailing on the cuffs and the black piping.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Post #70: Fashion on Film - A Final Bit of Potter Fun

Hopefully, most of you Potter fans out there have seen the eighth movie at least once (or better yet twice) by now. If not, then I am going to spoil one small thing that has nothing to do with the plot or the execution of it in the film other than a small bit of costuming. I am writing this post to declare Hermione Granger (or at least her costume designer) an outfit repeater. Well, not exactly a full outfit, but more specifically a sweatshirt.
After seeing Deathly Hallows: Part 2 the first time, I noticed that Hermione's pink sweatshirt/jean jacket combo looked familiar. So, I decided to do a bit of research. Turns out that Jany Temime has been the costume designer for the Potter films ever since Prisoner of Azkaban (Chamber of Secrets was designed by Lindy Hemming and Sorcerer's Stone was designed by Judianna Makovsky). Now, visually, I think this all of a sudden makes a lot of sense. While there were minimal changes in the costuming between Chamber of Secrets and Sorcerer's stone, the costumes remained light and fanciful as a whole. However, when Alfonso Cuarón came in for the third movie, the tone of the Potter films changed completely. All of a sudden, the students were more casual, the grounds of Hogwarts kept changing, and the lighting was different. Jany Temime was responsible for the initial look of their transfer to casual clothing and then kept it consistent (almost like a calling card) throughout the next five films.
Perhaps she was referencing her start on the Potter films or perhaps she simply forgot, but Jany Temime put Hermione Granger in an almost identical pink sweatshirt. Upon close inspection, the sweatshirt is technically different. The third movie had a more salmon version and the eighth had a more purplish/pink version. However, in different lighting they look almost exactly the same. The only real difference is the pull tab and the lack of hood draw strings on the Deathly Hallows sweatshirt. Still, the concept is the same and cannot be hidden by a jean jacket. Check it out.

Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban


Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2

Its prevalence in the trailer does not even compare to its prevalence in the film itself. 

Friday, July 15, 2011

Post #69: Fashion on Film - The Potter Awards

Most stories have their archetypal characters. There's the villain, the hero, the damsel in distress...etcetera, etcetera. However, when you narrow things down to various trends and styles, you end up with labels like "prep," "goth," "hipster," and more. So, after looking at all of the Harry Potter films, I thought I would give out a few "archetypal" awards to our cast of characters.

Most Fashionable
Rita Skeeter and Gilderoy Lockhart

With Ms. Skeeter's gossipy agenda, tailored silhouettes, and sexy librarian glasses, there is no denying that she trumps almost all other Potter characters when it comes to caring about her looks. Silks (such as the one seen on the left) and elaborate leather details (see right panel) add just the right touch of chic to her witchy apparel. 
At the same time, Ms. Skeeter may have met her opposite sex match in the form of Gilderoy Lockhart. Rocking even lavender robes and waistcoats, he always looks quite dashing. And rightly so, seeing as how most of the female wizarding world is in love with him. Just imagine the size of his wardrobe!











The Girly Girl
Lavender Brown

With her affinity for pink headbands and pet-names for her "sweetheart" (Ron Weasley), Miss Brown is definitely the archetypal girly girl of Harry Potter.






The Fairy Princess
Fleur Delacour

From her perfect Parisian-esque blue Beauxbatons uniform to her outfit at the beginning of Deathly Hallows: Part 2 to her wedding dress, Fleur floats through the fashion world like the perfect fairy princess. Many have compared the gown to a dress from Alexander McQueen's Fall 2008 collection. The major differences between the two are the length and top of the bodice. McQueen's dress involved two peacocks facing each other while Fleur's involved two phoenix heads that rose above the top of the bodice. Nevertheless, this is the perfect wedding dress for the wizard world. 




The Goths
The Death Eaters

The "goth" look is best wornby  Lucius and Narcissa Malfoy, Snape, and Bellatrix Lestrange. Lucius and Snape in their long black robes (combined with their pale skin and long hair) show a very muted side of the goth look. Here Lucius' cane and silver buttons add just the right creepy touch. Narcissa does the same, but in the form of long gowns with fitted bodices. Meanwhile, Bellatrix Lestrange puts her own BDSM spin on things with corsets, leather, and cut-outs. 





The Hippie
Xenophilius Lovegood

The vests, the patterns, the fit of the clothing, and the color palette all fit into the category of flower power. And while we're at it, let's add Professor Trelawney with her headscarves and necklaces to this category. 







Have more thoughts? More categories? More characters that fit certain style labels? 
Comments are welcome.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Post #68: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 3)

            Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince marked the last time that I was decently happy with the costumes throughout the entirety of a Harry Potter film. I think this is partially due to the fact that it's the last film that takes place (for a majority of the run-time) at Hogwarts. That being said, it still had its questionable fashion moments. 
            Looking at this panel of six (below), it is clear that (as per all Potter films since Prisoner of Azkaban) a filter was used on filming to make everything darker. However, the colors on each character's outfits have definitely become more muted. The adults in the film still carry more of a wizard look than the students, as can be seen by Dumbledore and Snape's long robes. However, I personally think that while Draco's tailored jacket, turtleneck, and pants definitely look like something you could buy at a high end store, they still work. Because of the cut of the clothing (a longer jacket with stronger shoulders) along with the charcoal gray and black color palate, he still looks magical. Ron's Quidditch robes and pads make him look a little ominous, but definitely not like a Muggle. Meanwhile, Harry and Hermione's outfits could have been purchased at the mall. 



            However, the movie isn't a failure with respect to the clothing. While you now see people in their casual clothing at the tables in the Great Hall, you also get brief moments of light. Reminiscent of the lighting and color palette of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, the Gryffindor Quidditch uniform shines brightly in the scene below. 



            But more than anything else, I would say that the introduction of Professor Slughorn is one of the main driving forces of the fashion in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. In the classroom, you have the same uniforms as the last few movies: same tie, same robes (note the maroon trimming the inside of their hoods and sleeves). What I find most entertaining though is Professor Slughorn's "wizard" version of the cap and gown look. At least his robes have intricate embroidery even though the suit underneath screams dapper but absent-minded professor. 



            Slughorn's exclusive dinner party also made for some interesting costuming choices. It is here that I pose a question: where does Harry get all of his "nicer" Muggle clothing (like the suit below) and why does he bring said clothing to Hogwarts. After all, you never hear about him going shopping while staying at the Dursley's. Ginny's dress seems suitable for the occasion, but I also have to wonder where the Weasley's got it and how they afforded it. It would have been nice to see a return to fashions circa the Goblet of Fire Yule Ball era here. 






And then there was Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1

            Deathly Hallows: Part 1 felt very casual to me, but that's partially due to its content. You're not going to see Hogwarts' robes when Harry, Ron, and Hermione are everywhere but Hogwarts. However, the scenes at Bill and Fleur's wedding and the Ministry of Magic add some variety to the mix. 
            The movie poster itself leaves our heroic trio in very bland outfits. The whole jeans, jacket, shirt thing is the stuff of any movie about teenagers. I guess they did need to have utilitarian garments for running through the woods and apparating all around the world though. 




            However, when Harry and Hermione have their dance moment in the tent the whole casual thing becomes a little too much. Wouldn't you peg Hermione for more of an argyle girl than a flannel one? I mean, if she were a Muggle she would definitely act the part of prepster and probably dress it as well. 



            After that hipster mess of clothing, you would hope that things would get better. However, the last strike against the clothing in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1 was the whole Snatcher thing. I'm sorry, but Twilight should not be making an appearance in Harry Potter. Although I do kind of like the outfit on the far right. 




            Bill and Fleur's wedding does make up for a lot of the fashion faux pas in the film. Fleur's wedding dress is magical bliss (check back for tomorrow's post, which will contain an image of it) and the garments worn by the attendees are better than Muggle dress clothes. Hermione's dress could have been bought at an elegant department, but Harry and Ron's suits are a great step up from the suit that Harry wore during Slughorn's dinner party. The velvet of his waistcoat is a really nice detail. 




            Finally, I thought I'd leave you with a scene that cleverly lets each character display their own personal style. While I do adore Kingsley Shacklebolt, Hagrid, and Mad-Eye Moody for dressing in traditional wizard garb that could have passed in any of the films, Fred and George get my wizard "best dressed" awards. And Mundungus Fletcher gets "worst dressed" for looking like Danny DeVito in Matilda. Oh the funny things that arise when there are seven Harrys. Enjoy.






Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Post #67: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 2)

            While Alfonso Cuarón probably changed the style and fashion of the Harry Potter world for good with Prisoner of Azkaban, Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire did reinstate some of the magical flare in the clothing at Hogwarts. With a new director (Mike Newell), it seemed as if a refresh button of sorts had been hit. 
            As can be seen in the movie poster (below), the advertising still contained Muggle clothing, but careful attention was paid to the garb worn by the characters participating in the Tri-Wizard tournament. Just look at the lacing on Harry's cloak. 



            When Muggle clothing did take center-stage in the film, it made its mark in scenes where it was more believable that the characters would be in casual garb. For instance, in the picture below (showing Ron, Harry, and Hermione in their common room), the dynamic trio is in their pajamas. Ron's robe is even eclectic enough to be seen as more wizard-like than "normal."



            In itself, the fourth book lent itself to more elaborate costumes just because of its content. Not only do you have the normal Hogwarts day-to-day schedule, but you have the introduction of two new wizard schools (Beauxbatons and Durmstrang both hail from different parts of the world, allowing for a more varied approach to clothing) and the Yule Ball. 
            Regarding what Hogwarts students wear to class, not much has changed since Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. The striping on their ties is the same along with the more muted colors on their robes and a darker gray for their sweaters. I suppose one thing to note is the fact that you now see more of a mix; many students do not wear their robe over the sweater/skirt or sweater/pant combo. Also, the pleating on the girls' skirts has changed. They now have more of a flat-pannel front instead of all-around pleating (as seen in the second movie). 



            The Yule Ball brought each character's background into play, determining which dress robes appeared more wizard-like or fashionable. Ron Weasley, in his hand-me-down robes, looked every bit the crazy wizard with ruffles galore. Harry's robes have more of a mixed vibe. A lot of the elements that one might see in a tuxedo are apparent, yet they retain the same kind of front (however much more subdued) as Ron's robes. They still look like something out of a Harry Potter film over something out of a James Bond movie. Hermione's dress is elegant, but also looks like a credible senior prom dress at many U.S. high schools. Meanwhile, Viktor Krum's apparel screams Russian or Bulgarian, but definitely retains a wizard edge (through its fur trims and silhouette). 






            Finally, because its introduction of new people and new schools, the costume designer of Goblet of Fire got to bring more variation into what wizards might wear. This is particularly apparent in the uniforms of the Beauxbatons and Durmstrang students, as well as the style of the one and only Rita Skeeter. The hat details on both Fleur and Viktor's costumes add the perfect amount of specificity to their looks, while the structure and colors of Ms. Skeeter's suit/dress combos works its own kind of seductive and extravagant magic. You can tell by the variations in texture of her outfits that she not only cares a lot about her appearance, but spends a lot on it. 







Then there was Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix

            The fifth movie did not change much in the way of costuming. In fact, some of the same costume ploys and differences were adopted yet again. This is evident in the introduction of new characters and new rules. Uniform-wise, Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix brought in the option of the button-up sweater or the pull-over sweater. In many respects, it also kept the students more visibly in their uniforms. As can be seen through Dumbledore's Army meetings, the students were seen wearing their uniforms even during down-time. 




            This increase in uniform-wearing is partially the cause of Dolores Umbridge being made Headmistress in Dumbledore's absence. One of my favorite moments in the fifth movie shows up in the trailer for it. While the students still wear their uniforms in a "teenage" fashion à la Prisoner of Azkaban, Dolores Umbridge's focus on propriety straightens them up. 

            

            Speaking of new characters and new focus, the prevalence of Dolores Umbridge and Luna Lovegood in this film add new fashions (in the same way that Lupin and Rita Skeeter may have in previous films). Umbridge's affinity for fuzzy and pink and Luna's radish earrings add perfect pops of color in a darkly tinted film. 





            But have no fear, darkness isn't too far away as Death Eater's take over and Bellatrix Lestrange's laced, corseted, leathered self takes center stage at the end of the film. 

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Post #66: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 1)

            In 1997 J.K. Rowling created a magical world filled with cloaks and pointy hats and measuring tapes that took people's measurements by themselves at Madam Malkin's Robes for All Occasions. In chapter 5 of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, Harry's Hogwarts acceptance letter deems that there is a uniform at Hogwarts. 

"First-year students will require:

  1. Three sets of plain work robes (black)
  2. One plain pointed hat (black) for day wear
  3. One pair of protective gloves (dragon hide or similar)
  4. One winter cloak (black, silver fastenings)" (pg. 66)
            All of that being said, it seemed that the most "normal" clothing in the wizarding world got involved the sweaters that Mrs. Weasley knit every Christmas. Then the Harry Potter movies came out. 

            Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone (or Philosopher's Stone depending on the country you bought the book or saw the movie in) was nominated for multiple Academy Awards in 2001, including one for Best Costume Design. While it lost to Moulin Rouge! in a competitive pool that also included the first Lord of the Rings movie, it certainly did justice to J.K. Rowling's words. Directed by Chris Colombus, the first two movies in the series were probably the most true to the books. 


In the first movie, you got brighter colors. The scarf included large stripes of vibrant maroon and gold and the Gryffindor crest on the robes was larger. 






While Hermione, Ron, and Harry did pursue the Sorcerer's Stone in their "muggle-like" clothing... 



You, more often than not, saw them in their uniforms. Notice one of the few appearances of the pointed hat  in the entire series. 




And the professor's robes were as decadent and wizardish as your wildest dreams. 


Then came Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets

In the second movie, the uniforms were the same. The skirts were pleated, the socks were high, the ties were neatly tied, and the colors stayed light. 




They introduced the one and only male wizard fashion maven: Gilderoy Lockhart. 




The Quidditch uniforms remained intricate. Just look at the detailing on their boots and gloves and the intricacy of the robe clasps.  



The darker side of wizard fashion (a.k.a. a plethora of variations on the color black) was introduced with the increasing prevalence of Lucius Malfoy. 



And the adults in the wizarding world stuck to tradition in their detailed robes and crooked hats. 



Then came Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban

            In my opinion, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban was the beginning of a small downfall in the fashion involved in the Harry Potter Series. The director, Alfonso Cuarón, focused more on the characters' transition into being teenagers and it reflected in their clothing. The proper Hogwarts of the first two movies was loosened up and muggle clothing took more prevalence. When the students weren't in class, they definitely wouldn't be wearing their robes. 

            In some respects, I understand this. Each of the students at Hogwarts is apt to have "normal-people" clothing. They wear it on transit to Platform 9 3/4 at least. But the increased prevalence of jeans and sweatshirts kind of killed a magical quality in the movies. 



Unfortunately, the movie poster adopted muggle clothing as its main fashion focus...



And you saw the dynamic trio in these outfits for a large portion of the film. It was also the introduction of Hermione's pink hoodie. 



When they did wear uniforms, it was only to class. The tie changed from the solid equally spaced stripes to this more intricate pattern and the color spectrum became darker and more muted. Also notice how the not even Hermione has her uniform on perfectly straight. Seriously, who ties a tie like that (and yes I'm speaking to you Ron and Harry)?



And Professor Lupin introduced the suit and tie (shabbily perfected for his character) instead of the cloak into the Hogwarts-Professor-Wardrobe.