After seeing him outside of the Mugler show and then again after the Raf Simons show, I got up the gumption to introduce myself to Jefferson Hack. It was an absolute dream come true to be able to shake his hand and tell him how much I love his work. And as a fashionable detail, Hack was wearing skinny jeans, sunglasses, and a gray loose-fitting jacket.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Confidence having risen after attending the Christian Lacroix show, this blogger attempted to get into the Raf Simons show...and did.
With all of the hype surrounding Simons as the new artistic director of Dior, this was definitely a show to see. Located in an industrial space on Rue de Lappe, the show's setting was edgy and gave off a feeling of great importance. The strong white and black interior had seating on two levels. Once it began, each model's trajectory started on the balcony level and then moved down to the main floor where intricate choreography allowed the models to avoid running into each other.
If anything, this show demonstrated the genius of Simons when it comes to taking a classic piece and making it new again. With eyelet-detailed jackets, striking prints that you would not expect to see on a man, and a colorful use of shirt facing, this show produced one marvel after another. Overall, it had a grungy yet playful schoolboy vibe that was even present in the models' hairstyles.
Based on what I saw here, I believe that Simons will take Dior in a new direction, but definitely live up to its legacy. And because fashion is all about the look, some photographs for your knowledge and entertainment (click to enlarge):
A view of the space as the first model traveled along the balcony.
The collars on the button-downs and the cut of the suit jackets were two of my favorite aspects of the collection. Also, note the hair here.
A definitive view of that schoolboy vibe.
Note the blue facing in certain sections of the shirt.
An eyelet style jacket.
A print I would never imagine seeing on a man...but it works here.
This coat was the piece de resistance of the collection. While not fully evident here, the back involved a floral printed fabric that appeared to be pleated. The contrast of the two sides stuck in my mind well after the show was over.
A shot of the final line-up. Note the use of (more feminine) color.
(All photographs by Kristen Friberger)
Finally, this blogger has gotten her very first intoxicating taste of going to a fashion show. From the people (including Suzy Menkes, Terry Richardson, Tommy Ton, etc.) to the side streets, from the venues to the style...the atmosphere is intriguing and brilliant.
The very first show that I went to was the Christian Lacroix menswear show for Spring/Summer 2013. Personally, I'm amazed by the amount of women in heels who survived walking the cobblestone path that led into Hotel de Brossier (located at 12 Rue Charlot). Once inside, I found a standing spot on the stairs right next to the pack of photographers.
While the house of Lacroix is often thought of as being more in tune with the world of costumes than the world of fashion, I found the show to be both inspired and wearable. Playful prints lit up closet staples such as the t-shirt (cut in a more square and billowing fashion). Classically puffy jackets were made refined in their detailing, including multiple zippered layers. Belts and banding were also used in an innovative fashion as they wrapped around sections of the clothing and torso, but were not a completely outside layer. Many of the jacket and skinny tie pairings were sexy, confident, and slightly reminiscent of Mad Men. Meanwhile, the continuity of the collection resided in the silhouette with variations on a few staple pieces (larger jackets, suiting, and billowy square t-shirts).
For your enjoyment, research, and entertainment please enjoy the following photographs (click to enlarge):
The venue prior to plastic being removed from the catwalk.
I truly enjoyed the bright colors that were sent down the runway. Clearly my obsession with yellow clothing isn't going away any time soon. Also, both jackets here have great classic potential.
An example of the prints seen at the show.
While not every man could pull off the pants on the right, I'd sure like to see some try.
Great interplay between a subtle pattern and an exaggerated puffy silhouette.
Every man should own an outfit like this.
Innovative use of banding as previously mentioned.
A slice of the finally line-up.
(All Photographs By Kristen Friberger)
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Following up on Post #110, which discussed Hedi Slimane's move to L.A., this post is covering the latest drama going down in the house of Yves Saint Laurent. Today's news: Slimane is changing the name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris.
This blogger's views are that this is a poor decision. The house of Yves Saint Laurent has a large amount of history and the YSL logo has long been a part of their products. By taking away the Y and adding a P at the end, a disconnect is created between their branding and their company name. Secondly, Saint Laurent Paris does not have the same ring to it as Yves Saint Laurent. It does not sound nearly as expensive or high quality.
When newspapers and magazines attempt to justify the name change, they compare it to Chanel (which used to be the house of Coco Chanel) or MUGLER, which used to be Thierry Mugler until Nicola Formichetti changed it. However, the addition of "Paris" puts the YSL name change in a different category.
This is an especially key word choice in light of the fact that Slimane just moved to L.A. Maybe he's trying to show that the Saint Laurent brand will still be following its Parisian roots. Maybe he's trying to prove to his company that a move to L.A. does not mean that he plans to separate the brand from Paris. Or maybe it means that unless he moves back soon, Saint Laurent will be getting a new creative director.
All I know is that I can't wait to see how this story unfolds...
As I posted on Twitter:
To the woman who unknowingly skinned the side of my ankle this evening,
To the woman who unknowingly skinned the side of my ankle this evening,
If you can't walk in them, stand in them, dance in them, or refrain from harming people in them, don't wear them. Yes, pain can be beauty, but you shouldn't inflict it on others.
<3 The Mannequin
Posted by Kristen Friberger at 3:27 PM
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
If you weren't already aware, I've been studying fashion in Paris since the beginning of the month. My program's curriculum offers a slew of courses in everything from fashion illustration to fashion promotion. While I had come to the program with a focus on the business side of fashion, I ended up learning a lot more than I bargained for with regard to design. My proudest accomplishment thus far has been my greatly increased drawing skills.
Up until this point in time, I had only ever taken one costume design course (at Colgate) where the emphasis was more on the designs and less about proper proportions and pretty figures. But now, thanks to the Paris Fashion Institute's incredible Illustration teacher (her name is Jinny), I just marvel at how far I've come. To "illustrate" my point, here's a series of my sketches to show my development.
My basic skills started off with something a little worse than this.
Then proportions got better thanks to some guidelines (notice the folded page and the little labels on the side? They're telling me what body parts go where.).
My figures started getting better, thanks to the guidelines.
But things still weren't quite right and my teacher told me to work on the confidence in my lines.
So I did a lot of tracing.
And by a lot, I mean hours of tracing. Thank goodness, my hand started getting used to how figures should be drawn.
This is one of my earlier designs with better proportions.
Then came time for me to work on hands, feet, faces, and hair.
And finally, yesterday I accomplished this.
And then challenged myself to a more difficult pose.
Not too shabby, huh?
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
For those of you who don't know, Hedi Slimane was recently appointed creative director of YSL. With a large fashion background that includes a previous run at YSL, as well as run at Dior and a successful career as a photographer, Slimane is clearly worthy of the job.
However, Slimane recently decided that L.A. is the place to be. Whether it's the sun, the smog, or the history, something clearly attracted him across a pond and a continent. Why is this an issue? Because YSL's headquarters are in Paris (separating them and Slimane by thousands of miles and a 9-hour time difference) and fittings will still be taking place there.
Many comparisons are being made between Slimane and Phoebe Philo. Philo, who is creative director of Céline (and who rose to fame during her time at Chloé), moved to London to be closer to her family. Thanks to her incredible work ethic and success, the Céline studio picked up and moved from Paris to London so that they could be close.
Somehow, I doubt that the house of Yves Saint Laurent is going to ditch its native Paris for laid-back L.A. It does not fit the image of the company and it would cost an incredible amount of money. But if they don't move, what will that mean for Slimane? Somehow I don't see a creative director who is so far removed from its fashion house lasting that long. The Mannequin will be keeping an eye on how this plot thickens over the course of the next few months. And you should too.
The Devil may wear Prada, but Ben Kingsley wants to wear it too. Prada's latest fashion film, "A Therapy," which debuted at the Cannes Film Festival on May 21st, is simply impeccable. Directed by Roman Polanksi (of the Pianist) and starring Ben Kingsley and Helena Bonham Carter, the film is a quiet tour-de-force that centers around a purple Prada coat. Were it not for their ad campaign or the single shot of a Prada label in Bonham Carter's shoe, you might not know what the video was for. Polanski calls it an "anti-ad," but I call it a gateway to more intellectual and substantive fashion films. The room for analysis is endless; the mise-en-scene, the dialogue, the concept, and the characters all lend themselves to thought-provocation. No wonder Prada is one of the most influential design houses of today. After all, "Prada suits everyone."
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
If you don't know Jefferson Hack, then you definitely should look into his work after reading this post. At 40, Hack has already started three magazines, developed the Dazed Group, and (in my opinion) paved the way for the internet and magazines to coexist.
Born in Montevideo, Uruguay in 1971, Hack lived in many places until finally settling in England at age nine. In interviews he has noted Interview magazine and Godard films as major inspirations in his early life.
The Man Himself (Image Citation)
At age 20, Hack joined up with fellow London College of Printing student Rankin (a photographer with a then-growing reputation for celebrity portraiture) and founded Dazed & Confused. No, I'm not talking about the movie. Dazed & Confused is a magazine that covers fashion, photography, arts, culture, and music. After starting out as a black-and-white fold-out poster that was published sporadically, it became a full-fledged magazine. It has often been noted as giving fairly unknown stylists and photographers the opportunity to show what they can do (often times only their expenses are paid, with the hope that they will secure more jobs due to exposure in the magazine) and has been responsible for many the success story. Want to know something even cooler? It's noted as being the first style magazine to ever be fully created on a desktop computer.
With people like Bjork gracing the cover of Dazed & Confused within the magazine's first twenty issues, Hack and Rankin were set for success. Popularity and circulation increased throughout the '90s. In 1991, Rankin and Hack created Dazed Film and TV and in 2001, under the title of the Dazed Group, they published AnOther magazine. Following its success, AnOther Man came out in 2005. While Rod Stanley is now the Editor-in-Chief of Dazed & Confused, Hack holds the same title at both AnOther and AnOther Man.
Since 2005, Hack has started many more projects including Dazed TV Party (a program combining interviews and performances), co-curating at the Amsterdam Foam Gallery, doing a three-piece shoe collection with Tod's for Collette, and then once again collaborating with Tod's for their No_Code Collection.
A Look from Tod's No_Code Collection (Image Citation)
So, aside from being so successful, what makes Jefferson Hack someone worth knowing? The list of reasons could go on and on. First of all, if you don't know his name from these magazines, you may still recognize it. A normally very private person, Hack was thrown into the spotlight when he dated Kate Moss. The two had a child together in 2002 (Lila Grace Moss) and, according to tabloids and interviews, have remained close and on good terms. Meanwhile, many articles (starting with one in The Guardian) have dared to pose the question "Is Jefferson Hack the coolest person in the UK?" His "coolness" is constantly brought up in articles and interviews with the magazine guru. Noted as collecting Olivetti typewriters, wearing skinny pants, and owning an ashtray from Cafe de Flore, his personality seems to match the coolness of his job.
The number one reason that The Mannequin thinks he's cool? I'm pretty sure he figured out a philosophy that could keep magazines alive during a time where many people say that they're a "dying trade." Being one of the forerunners in digital and printed content, Hack has found a balance between the two. In an interview for the London Evening Standard, he was noted as saying that magazines are like tangible souvenirs of the moment, while the ongoing story of fashion and life plays out online. In my mind, both are equally valuable resources.
And with that, I urge you to look at and follow both the magazines and life of Jefferson Hack in the future.
During the last week of May, this blogger flew across the Atlantic and landed in Paris, France. Taking in the beauty of the City of Lights was inspiring. Starting a one-month fashion intensive program run by the Paris Fashion Institute on June 1st opened my eyes to more than I had ever learned about the fashion industry. That being said, throughout the month of June, I will be blogging from my Parisian room on trends, films, stores, and people that have inspired me in my time here. Now if only I knew a French and fashionable equivalent of "bon appetit" to end this post with...
Posted by Kristen Friberger at 1:52 PM