Friday, July 15, 2011

Post #69: Fashion on Film - The Potter Awards

Most stories have their archetypal characters. There's the villain, the hero, the damsel in distress...etcetera, etcetera. However, when you narrow things down to various trends and styles, you end up with labels like "prep," "goth," "hipster," and more. So, after looking at all of the Harry Potter films, I thought I would give out a few "archetypal" awards to our cast of characters.

Most Fashionable
Rita Skeeter and Gilderoy Lockhart

With Ms. Skeeter's gossipy agenda, tailored silhouettes, and sexy librarian glasses, there is no denying that she trumps almost all other Potter characters when it comes to caring about her looks. Silks (such as the one seen on the left) and elaborate leather details (see right panel) add just the right touch of chic to her witchy apparel. 
At the same time, Ms. Skeeter may have met her opposite sex match in the form of Gilderoy Lockhart. Rocking even lavender robes and waistcoats, he always looks quite dashing. And rightly so, seeing as how most of the female wizarding world is in love with him. Just imagine the size of his wardrobe!











The Girly Girl
Lavender Brown

With her affinity for pink headbands and pet-names for her "sweetheart" (Ron Weasley), Miss Brown is definitely the archetypal girly girl of Harry Potter.






The Fairy Princess
Fleur Delacour

From her perfect Parisian-esque blue Beauxbatons uniform to her outfit at the beginning of Deathly Hallows: Part 2 to her wedding dress, Fleur floats through the fashion world like the perfect fairy princess. Many have compared the gown to a dress from Alexander McQueen's Fall 2008 collection. The major differences between the two are the length and top of the bodice. McQueen's dress involved two peacocks facing each other while Fleur's involved two phoenix heads that rose above the top of the bodice. Nevertheless, this is the perfect wedding dress for the wizard world. 




The Goths
The Death Eaters

The "goth" look is best wornby  Lucius and Narcissa Malfoy, Snape, and Bellatrix Lestrange. Lucius and Snape in their long black robes (combined with their pale skin and long hair) show a very muted side of the goth look. Here Lucius' cane and silver buttons add just the right creepy touch. Narcissa does the same, but in the form of long gowns with fitted bodices. Meanwhile, Bellatrix Lestrange puts her own BDSM spin on things with corsets, leather, and cut-outs. 





The Hippie
Xenophilius Lovegood

The vests, the patterns, the fit of the clothing, and the color palette all fit into the category of flower power. And while we're at it, let's add Professor Trelawney with her headscarves and necklaces to this category. 







Have more thoughts? More categories? More characters that fit certain style labels? 
Comments are welcome.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Post #68: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 3)

            Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince marked the last time that I was decently happy with the costumes throughout the entirety of a Harry Potter film. I think this is partially due to the fact that it's the last film that takes place (for a majority of the run-time) at Hogwarts. That being said, it still had its questionable fashion moments. 
            Looking at this panel of six (below), it is clear that (as per all Potter films since Prisoner of Azkaban) a filter was used on filming to make everything darker. However, the colors on each character's outfits have definitely become more muted. The adults in the film still carry more of a wizard look than the students, as can be seen by Dumbledore and Snape's long robes. However, I personally think that while Draco's tailored jacket, turtleneck, and pants definitely look like something you could buy at a high end store, they still work. Because of the cut of the clothing (a longer jacket with stronger shoulders) along with the charcoal gray and black color palate, he still looks magical. Ron's Quidditch robes and pads make him look a little ominous, but definitely not like a Muggle. Meanwhile, Harry and Hermione's outfits could have been purchased at the mall. 



            However, the movie isn't a failure with respect to the clothing. While you now see people in their casual clothing at the tables in the Great Hall, you also get brief moments of light. Reminiscent of the lighting and color palette of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, the Gryffindor Quidditch uniform shines brightly in the scene below. 



            But more than anything else, I would say that the introduction of Professor Slughorn is one of the main driving forces of the fashion in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. In the classroom, you have the same uniforms as the last few movies: same tie, same robes (note the maroon trimming the inside of their hoods and sleeves). What I find most entertaining though is Professor Slughorn's "wizard" version of the cap and gown look. At least his robes have intricate embroidery even though the suit underneath screams dapper but absent-minded professor. 



            Slughorn's exclusive dinner party also made for some interesting costuming choices. It is here that I pose a question: where does Harry get all of his "nicer" Muggle clothing (like the suit below) and why does he bring said clothing to Hogwarts. After all, you never hear about him going shopping while staying at the Dursley's. Ginny's dress seems suitable for the occasion, but I also have to wonder where the Weasley's got it and how they afforded it. It would have been nice to see a return to fashions circa the Goblet of Fire Yule Ball era here. 






And then there was Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1

            Deathly Hallows: Part 1 felt very casual to me, but that's partially due to its content. You're not going to see Hogwarts' robes when Harry, Ron, and Hermione are everywhere but Hogwarts. However, the scenes at Bill and Fleur's wedding and the Ministry of Magic add some variety to the mix. 
            The movie poster itself leaves our heroic trio in very bland outfits. The whole jeans, jacket, shirt thing is the stuff of any movie about teenagers. I guess they did need to have utilitarian garments for running through the woods and apparating all around the world though. 




            However, when Harry and Hermione have their dance moment in the tent the whole casual thing becomes a little too much. Wouldn't you peg Hermione for more of an argyle girl than a flannel one? I mean, if she were a Muggle she would definitely act the part of prepster and probably dress it as well. 



            After that hipster mess of clothing, you would hope that things would get better. However, the last strike against the clothing in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1 was the whole Snatcher thing. I'm sorry, but Twilight should not be making an appearance in Harry Potter. Although I do kind of like the outfit on the far right. 




            Bill and Fleur's wedding does make up for a lot of the fashion faux pas in the film. Fleur's wedding dress is magical bliss (check back for tomorrow's post, which will contain an image of it) and the garments worn by the attendees are better than Muggle dress clothes. Hermione's dress could have been bought at an elegant department, but Harry and Ron's suits are a great step up from the suit that Harry wore during Slughorn's dinner party. The velvet of his waistcoat is a really nice detail. 




            Finally, I thought I'd leave you with a scene that cleverly lets each character display their own personal style. While I do adore Kingsley Shacklebolt, Hagrid, and Mad-Eye Moody for dressing in traditional wizard garb that could have passed in any of the films, Fred and George get my wizard "best dressed" awards. And Mundungus Fletcher gets "worst dressed" for looking like Danny DeVito in Matilda. Oh the funny things that arise when there are seven Harrys. Enjoy.






Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Post #67: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 2)

            While Alfonso CuarĂ³n probably changed the style and fashion of the Harry Potter world for good with Prisoner of Azkaban, Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire did reinstate some of the magical flare in the clothing at Hogwarts. With a new director (Mike Newell), it seemed as if a refresh button of sorts had been hit. 
            As can be seen in the movie poster (below), the advertising still contained Muggle clothing, but careful attention was paid to the garb worn by the characters participating in the Tri-Wizard tournament. Just look at the lacing on Harry's cloak. 



            When Muggle clothing did take center-stage in the film, it made its mark in scenes where it was more believable that the characters would be in casual garb. For instance, in the picture below (showing Ron, Harry, and Hermione in their common room), the dynamic trio is in their pajamas. Ron's robe is even eclectic enough to be seen as more wizard-like than "normal."



            In itself, the fourth book lent itself to more elaborate costumes just because of its content. Not only do you have the normal Hogwarts day-to-day schedule, but you have the introduction of two new wizard schools (Beauxbatons and Durmstrang both hail from different parts of the world, allowing for a more varied approach to clothing) and the Yule Ball. 
            Regarding what Hogwarts students wear to class, not much has changed since Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. The striping on their ties is the same along with the more muted colors on their robes and a darker gray for their sweaters. I suppose one thing to note is the fact that you now see more of a mix; many students do not wear their robe over the sweater/skirt or sweater/pant combo. Also, the pleating on the girls' skirts has changed. They now have more of a flat-pannel front instead of all-around pleating (as seen in the second movie). 



            The Yule Ball brought each character's background into play, determining which dress robes appeared more wizard-like or fashionable. Ron Weasley, in his hand-me-down robes, looked every bit the crazy wizard with ruffles galore. Harry's robes have more of a mixed vibe. A lot of the elements that one might see in a tuxedo are apparent, yet they retain the same kind of front (however much more subdued) as Ron's robes. They still look like something out of a Harry Potter film over something out of a James Bond movie. Hermione's dress is elegant, but also looks like a credible senior prom dress at many U.S. high schools. Meanwhile, Viktor Krum's apparel screams Russian or Bulgarian, but definitely retains a wizard edge (through its fur trims and silhouette). 






            Finally, because its introduction of new people and new schools, the costume designer of Goblet of Fire got to bring more variation into what wizards might wear. This is particularly apparent in the uniforms of the Beauxbatons and Durmstrang students, as well as the style of the one and only Rita Skeeter. The hat details on both Fleur and Viktor's costumes add the perfect amount of specificity to their looks, while the structure and colors of Ms. Skeeter's suit/dress combos works its own kind of seductive and extravagant magic. You can tell by the variations in texture of her outfits that she not only cares a lot about her appearance, but spends a lot on it. 







Then there was Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix

            The fifth movie did not change much in the way of costuming. In fact, some of the same costume ploys and differences were adopted yet again. This is evident in the introduction of new characters and new rules. Uniform-wise, Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix brought in the option of the button-up sweater or the pull-over sweater. In many respects, it also kept the students more visibly in their uniforms. As can be seen through Dumbledore's Army meetings, the students were seen wearing their uniforms even during down-time. 




            This increase in uniform-wearing is partially the cause of Dolores Umbridge being made Headmistress in Dumbledore's absence. One of my favorite moments in the fifth movie shows up in the trailer for it. While the students still wear their uniforms in a "teenage" fashion Ă  la Prisoner of Azkaban, Dolores Umbridge's focus on propriety straightens them up. 

            

            Speaking of new characters and new focus, the prevalence of Dolores Umbridge and Luna Lovegood in this film add new fashions (in the same way that Lupin and Rita Skeeter may have in previous films). Umbridge's affinity for fuzzy and pink and Luna's radish earrings add perfect pops of color in a darkly tinted film. 





            But have no fear, darkness isn't too far away as Death Eater's take over and Bellatrix Lestrange's laced, corseted, leathered self takes center stage at the end of the film. 

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Post #66: Fashion on Film - Harry Potter (Part 1)

            In 1997 J.K. Rowling created a magical world filled with cloaks and pointy hats and measuring tapes that took people's measurements by themselves at Madam Malkin's Robes for All Occasions. In chapter 5 of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, Harry's Hogwarts acceptance letter deems that there is a uniform at Hogwarts. 

"First-year students will require:

  1. Three sets of plain work robes (black)
  2. One plain pointed hat (black) for day wear
  3. One pair of protective gloves (dragon hide or similar)
  4. One winter cloak (black, silver fastenings)" (pg. 66)
            All of that being said, it seemed that the most "normal" clothing in the wizarding world got involved the sweaters that Mrs. Weasley knit every Christmas. Then the Harry Potter movies came out. 

            Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone (or Philosopher's Stone depending on the country you bought the book or saw the movie in) was nominated for multiple Academy Awards in 2001, including one for Best Costume Design. While it lost to Moulin Rouge! in a competitive pool that also included the first Lord of the Rings movie, it certainly did justice to J.K. Rowling's words. Directed by Chris Colombus, the first two movies in the series were probably the most true to the books. 


In the first movie, you got brighter colors. The scarf included large stripes of vibrant maroon and gold and the Gryffindor crest on the robes was larger. 






While Hermione, Ron, and Harry did pursue the Sorcerer's Stone in their "muggle-like" clothing... 



You, more often than not, saw them in their uniforms. Notice one of the few appearances of the pointed hat  in the entire series. 




And the professor's robes were as decadent and wizardish as your wildest dreams. 


Then came Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets

In the second movie, the uniforms were the same. The skirts were pleated, the socks were high, the ties were neatly tied, and the colors stayed light. 




They introduced the one and only male wizard fashion maven: Gilderoy Lockhart. 




The Quidditch uniforms remained intricate. Just look at the detailing on their boots and gloves and the intricacy of the robe clasps.  



The darker side of wizard fashion (a.k.a. a plethora of variations on the color black) was introduced with the increasing prevalence of Lucius Malfoy. 



And the adults in the wizarding world stuck to tradition in their detailed robes and crooked hats. 



Then came Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban

            In my opinion, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban was the beginning of a small downfall in the fashion involved in the Harry Potter Series. The director, Alfonso CuarĂ³n, focused more on the characters' transition into being teenagers and it reflected in their clothing. The proper Hogwarts of the first two movies was loosened up and muggle clothing took more prevalence. When the students weren't in class, they definitely wouldn't be wearing their robes. 

            In some respects, I understand this. Each of the students at Hogwarts is apt to have "normal-people" clothing. They wear it on transit to Platform 9 3/4 at least. But the increased prevalence of jeans and sweatshirts kind of killed a magical quality in the movies. 



Unfortunately, the movie poster adopted muggle clothing as its main fashion focus...



And you saw the dynamic trio in these outfits for a large portion of the film. It was also the introduction of Hermione's pink hoodie. 



When they did wear uniforms, it was only to class. The tie changed from the solid equally spaced stripes to this more intricate pattern and the color spectrum became darker and more muted. Also notice how the not even Hermione has her uniform on perfectly straight. Seriously, who ties a tie like that (and yes I'm speaking to you Ron and Harry)?



And Professor Lupin introduced the suit and tie (shabbily perfected for his character) instead of the cloak into the Hogwarts-Professor-Wardrobe.