Thursday, January 27, 2011

Post #9: Manning Up

            There’s an old saying that says you always want what you can’t have. Whether it be straight-instead-of-curly hair, height, a different eye color, etc., we are constantly seeking change. Going along this theme, one particular trend that we can’t seem to shake (almost year after year), is that of androgyny; so let’s play dress up in our fathers’ clothing, instead of our mothers’ pearls, and see if we make any best dressed lists.
            Throughout most of history, it was taboo for women to wear pants. Society much preferred us in corsets, hoop skirts, bustles, petticoats, and all things old-fashioned. In fact, it even used to be the case that showing an ankle to a male suitor was scandalous. Riding breeches came into fashion for a time, but were heavily disapproved of, and in Hollywood it was an anomaly to see anything but a woman in a skirt. Our first real glimpse into cinematic plays at gender roles was the iconic Marlene Dietrich in Morocco (1930). And if you haven’t seen the iconic picture of Dietrich smoking a cigarette, wearing a tux and tophat, then please look here:


That along with the fact that women wore pants to work in factories during World War I, gave us our first taste of women playing with men’s attire. And like some fairly addictive drug, we’ve been slowly getting more and more hooked throughout history.
            Continuing in this little lesson on old Hollywood fashion, next came Katharine Hepburn, who threw convention out the window. Along with having quite the bold attitude, Hepburn made it known that she liked wearing pants. In fact, most iconic photographs of the actress are of her in slacks or pantsuits. And while her outspoken personality and fashion sense seemed to put her on a more equal footing with her male coworkers, Hepburn never lost a certain sense of feisty femininity that makes us love to wear pants today.
            Then, in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent decided to embrace androgyny with its “Le Smoking” tuxedo for women. 

Not only was the male silhouette chic, but also the whole aura of erasing gender lines. The slicked back hair…the posture…somehow holds this indescribable sexiness and power.
            So now, embracing the new 2011 year, male fashion for women is back. I’m not telling you to wear a suit on the red carpet (although celebrities like Leighton Meester and Sandra Bullock have embraced their power strut in suits and heels), but I am telling you to take a few cues from dad and grandpa and man up. 

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Post #8: So This Is The New Year

           So this is the New Year…and what better way to ring it in than with one of the biggest televised parties of the year: the Golden Globes. And while this is only the first of many awards shows to be filled with fashion bests and worsts this year, it’s a good one to note.
            Each awards show tends to have its own style reputation. You have the MTV VMAs with shorter, sexier, and sometimes daring outfits. You have the Oscars with their classic Hollywood glamour (definitely the most decadent and formal of all red carpet moments). And then you have the Golden Globes: a mix of class and risk.
            For the attendees, the Globes have dinner and booze and therefore take on one of the “biggest” party atmospheres in this category of events. And while we may have no need to wear gowns in Hamilton, New York, we can still admire those celebrity style icons who we turn to again and again. So, without further ado I present The Mannequin’s Golden Globes Best and Worst Dressed List:


The Best:

5. Catherine Zeta-Jones: This forest-green Monique Lhuillier gown added structure and a little daring to the red carpet. While the dress wasn’t flattering at every angle, Ms. Jones still looked exquisite and classy: a goal that every celeb should have while putting their best foot forward on the red carpet. 




4. Eva Longoria: While some critics judged Longoria for her somber color choice, I happen to love this mature yet sexy approach to fashion. Her all-black Zac Posen dress with a daring neckline (and back) and form-fitting flair hit just the right amount of elegance and style for the Golden Globes. 



3. Megan Fox: Her Armani Privé gown with a multi-shade bandage top (complete with a single shimmery shoulder strap) and simply flowing fabric on bottom made for one classy Fox. She struck a perfect note with the delicate color while still keeping her reputation for sexiness with the gown’s form-fitting nature and mile-high slit. Aside from her fashionable competition, the only thing keeping her from being #1 on this list is the plain lack of finish on the bottom of the gown. 



2. Dianna Agron: Channeling Grace Kelly…Dianna Agron looked beautiful and classic with a look that was finessed from head to toe. Her curled hair, red lipstick, and simple yet elegant J. Mendel gown made her the epitome of classic Hollywood style. The pleated gown’s neutral color is completely on trend for this spring and her Cathy Waterman necklace adds just the right amount of sparkle to keep the look from being boring. This is one starlet who didn’t get washed out by this shade of nude. 



1. Olivia Wilde: Ball-gown for the win! Olivia Wilde’s chocolate brown Marchesa gown and simple hair made her an elegant princess all grown up. The jewels on her gown, which went from full concentration in the gown’s fitted bodice to increasing degrees of scarcity as the body of the gown’s fabric increased, made her the shining star of the night. While she could have run the risk of looking like she was going to junior prom, the rich color of the gown and the styling that went along with it made her both The Mannequin’s #1 as well as just about every other “Best Dressed” list’s top choice. 




The Worst:

5. Leighton Meester: Her Burberry Prorsum gown was called an Amish prom dress on E! and unfortunately, I think I have to agree with that diss at the oatmeal-colored gown. Look youthful while you’re still young. 



4. Scarlett Johansson: What’s with the dowdiness this season? While neutrals can work well on some dresses, the long sleeves and grandma-like texture of ScarJo’s Elie Saab gown makes her look washed out and does not complement her figure at all. 



3. J. Lo: While she made some best dressed lists, her Zuhair Murad dress would’ve done better without the sheer outer shell on top. I’m always one for pure white done right, and her gown could have been sexily understated, instead of dowdy, without the extra bejeweled fabric on top. 



2. Tina Fey: Fey’s navy velvet L’Wren Scott dress aged her well beyond her years. The sleeves were reminiscent of Natalie Portman’s on-stage transformation into the “Black Swan” in Darren Aronofsky’s latest critically acclaimed film. As for the rest of the dress, since when is velvet ever in? 


1. Michelle Williams: Most people and stylists agree: Boxy. Unflattering. Ugly. Washed Out Nude. Flower Power. Just “ew.” And to think…it’s Valentino. 



And Then There’s Helena Bonham Carter:

While Bonham Carter seems to be dominating all of the worst dressed lists, let’s just admit it: this woman can wear whatever the hell she wants and get away with it because she’s Helena Bonham Carter. Her different colored shoes, cacophonous shin-length Vivienne Westwood dress, wild hair, and red-carpet sunglasses made for one objectively ugly and ragged look. But she’s Helena Bonham Carter, and we’ll love her even more for stunts like this. 

Post #7: Slutty Halloween

            “Halloween is the one night a year when girls can dress like a total slut and no other girls can say anything about it,” said Cady Heron in Mean Girls. And to some extent, that’s true. If you wind up in full zombie bride make-up and regalia while everyone else is wearing thigh-highs and short skirts you’re bound to stick out.
            Over fall break I decided to go Halloween costume shopping because I figured that if I left it to online shopping I would either a) just not do it or b) end up with something that didn’t fit. So, I walked into the Halloween store. I passed the section with the little kid costumes and then the one with the men’s costumes, and finally positioned myself in front of the women’s selections. Looking up at a large wall of short skirts and chest-flaunting tops, I scanned my choices. Brands like “Spirit,” “Leg Avenue,” and “Playboy” dominated. And with names like that, you can’t expect to not show your legs or look like a bunny. Society is practically telling you to do so.
            So, I asked myself: “Is there really something wrong with looking a little more provocative on Halloween?” When you see costumes like “Sexy Scout,” “Saintly Sinner,” and “Frisky Felon,” it makes you think that looking seductive is just the norm. And I must say, I do like the alliteration. I mean it’s either these slutty costumes with entertaining names or a full Alice in Wonderland dress à la the live-action movie: (http://www.costumesinc.com/p18497/Deluxe-Alice-Movie-Costume-Womens-Licensed-Alice-in-Wonderland-Costume.html)…As much as I love Alice in Wonderland, the majority of other girls would be wearing about 1/3 as much as me, if I bought that one.

            Now while Jill Sobule sings in her song “Slutty Halloween” that she’s “not a fan of women whose Halloween costume is just that they’re slutty” because “that’s not a costume at all,” I determined that to some extent you should just follow the herd. As long as you’re wearing more than lingerie, it’s ok to want to look sexy on the one night a year that we can all pretend to be something else. So, if you want to…


            DO: Pull an Elle Woods and be smart yet able to pull off a Playboy Bunny costume like she does
            in Legally Blonde.
            DON'T: Pull a Karen Smith from Mean Girls and point at your headband saying "I'm a mouse,
            duh."

            Just remember, whatever you choose to do, make sure that your costume actually has character to it. And please, keep it somewhat classy.



Post #6: Show Some Skin

            Although it’s already getting so cold that there’s a chance of snow on Friday, I just couldn’t resist writing about a non-weather-conscious fashion trend that’s popping up all over: the cut-out. While Elle Magazine went so far as to make a “Missing Links” trend page showing deconstructed menswear, stores all over are choosing to make standard pieces of clothing a little more…interesting.
            Now, you could take my words quite literally and attempt to pull off a Regina George...


...in honor of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. However, I would advise that you not deconstruct your shirts with the scissors that are sitting on your dorm-room desk.
            Instead, imagine ways in which staple items of clothing (such as the little black dress or the blazer) could be made more innovative. Alexander Wang chose to “cut out” the midriff in his Fall Ready-to-Wear Collection (go here for the full collection: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010RTW-AWANG) and Hervé Léger by Max Azria played with cut-outs around the shoulders and collar bone (a must-see collection: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2010RTW-HLEGER). However, my personal favorite way to show some skin (in a classy way, of course) is the back cut-out.
            Unless any of us has a three-way mirror here at Colgate, I know that most of us tend to look at ourselves only from the front (and maybe the side) when we get dressed in the morning. And yes, when you have to wear a coat because the high of the day is 49 degrees, you tend to want to bundle up instead of strip down.  Yet, never discount the impact that a back-baring exit can have on someone you’re talking to. That moment of surprise can leave quite an impression.
            While I don’t quite know whether I approve of Cynthia Rowley’s Cut-Out Blazer (http://www.cynthiarowley.com/womens/shorts/cut-out-blazer.html) with its racerback detail, I do have a few favorite clothing selections from Urban Outfitters (http://www.urbanoutfitters.com) to share with you.
           

For the Girl Going For Sex Appeal:

  • Sexy and fitted, the architectural back cut-out detail of the Motel Lesley Dress is one of the most innovative designs that I’ve seen this season.
  • If you used to like playing “dress-up” and still have an affinity for patterns and bows, the Motel Bowtastic Dress is a sexy way of saying that you’re still a child at heart even though you’re all grown up. The stacking of the three bows in back is both flattering and striking. 



For the Girl Who’s a Casual Romantic:

  • The Pins and Needles Chiffon Open Back Dress with its ethereal layers of gray chiffon will make you look as if you should be dancing in a fairy glen. Its cowl back surrounded by a floral pattern paints a beautiful canvas.
  •  The (casual) little black dress gets a new spin with the Sparkle & Fade Knit Bow Back Dress. While fairly average from the front, the deconstructed bow that shows off in back will surely turn some heads.



For the Girl Who Wants to See Something Other Than a Dress:

  • Probably my favorite cut out piece that I’ve seen, the combination of the sheer lace and the lower cowl back of the Sparkle & Fade Lace Cowl Back Tank Top work in perfect harmony. While from the front you’ll look like you’re ready to take on a day of photography or a concert, the back is date-worthy.



Now while I may seem solely to be promoting Urban Outfitters apparel this week, remember that you can use these examples for inspiration. Cut-outs are running rampant in stores this season and the back is the perfect blank canvas of skin with which to show them off. Play with shape or play with sheerness, just always remember to keep it classy.

Post #5: Staying Warm...

            As the days at Colgate get colder and the fall leaves disappear more quickly than they should, those warm pieces of outerwear that come in all shapes and sizes begin to pop up more and more on the quad. Yes, I’m talking about The Coat. And because Colgate doesn’t get the warm weather that southern California gets year-round, it seems to be one of those closet essentials that you just have to have.
            At the turn of the 20th century, a woman’s coat was long. It was a piece of thick ankle-grazing fabric that often had an intricate neckline. In the “Roaring Twenties” the style was the wrap-over. Whatever the length, one side of the coat always wrapped over the other:



            The 40s brought shorter hemlines with the fabric restrictions that occurred in some countries (such as Britain) during World War II. Wearing your man’s coat was very “in fashion,” and strong shoulders were the favorite stylistic choice. The year 1961 brought us Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The trench coat made one of its most famous movie appearances when Holly Golightly called out for Cat in the rain. The 70s, 80s, and 90s went by and now we’re in the new millennium, where coats are more versatile than ever.
            So whether you already own the winter coat that’s going to get you through the season, or whether you’re still searching for that perfect outer shell, I thought I’d leave you with this guide to coats for the Fall/Winter 2010 season. 

The Bomber Jacket: Built for keeping warm, this thick (normally leather) jacket is fitted in the wrist, zippered, and has a wraparound collar. If you’re looking for the chicest of the bomber style this season, check out Burberry Prorsum’s shearling-coated ones. If you’re looking for something a little more “shoppable,” check out Free People’s Woolie Knit Bomber jacket: 

 

The Leather Jacket: Whether it be tight-fitted like my favorite from Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. Fall Ready-to-Wear collection...


...or whether it be slightly looser like those worn in Grease, this classic will always give your look an edge. 


The Trench Coat: While the most famous version of this coat may be attributed to the classic khaki-colored ones created by Burberry, trench coats of every pedigree are inhabiting stores this season. From H&M to London Fog, this predominantly knee-length double-breasted piece of outerwear is being featured in myriad colors.  Another plus: Who doesn't want to look like Audrey Hepburn in the rain?


 

The Fur Coat: If you can pull off the fur coat (whether in a solid rich color like most on the runway this season or in an animal print, then by all means wear it. However, don’t wind up looking like this model who got sent down the Chanel runway:



The Brocade Coat: Probably the highlight of Balmain’s Fall runway show, this coat looks like it belongs among the ranks of Louis XIV:


While most of these are following a more military-like style, this is one piece that definitely branches out from the norms of outerwear. If you’re looking for a more affordable version, Bebe’s Brocade Military Coat is a good place to start.



The Pea Coat: Seemingly a Colgate favorite, the Pea Coat will never go out of style. Made of heavy wool, it will be sure to keep you warm during the freezing months ahead of us. While the more classic versions come with double-breasted buttons and more muted tones, feel free to mix things up as stores are carrying the Pea Coat in a variety of fun colors nowadays. My personal favorite this season: (http://us.burberry.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4175396&cp=3965371.3963274.3965397&parentPage=family).

But no matter what coat you choose to don this winter, remember to stay warm…and don’t be afraid to let your outer shell be fashionable.

Post #4: A Few Unfashionable Tips from a Fashionable Blogger

As the weekend grows near and the leaves continue to fall far more quickly than they should, I thought I’d give you a few last Dos and Don’ts to get you through Fall Break.

DO: Stay in your pajamas all day. Whether you’re going home or staying at Colgate, take a break from everything…including standing in front of your closet choosing what you’re going to wear every morning.

DON’T: Always listen to what fashion magazines tell you. Just because Marie Claire’s September Issue claimed that “sweatshirts and jeans trimmed in leather or embellished with an array of beads and sequins” are “cocktail-appropriate”, does not mean that you should ever do it. When in doubt, dress more formally than you think you should.

DO: Watch the Devil Wears Prada and Gossip Girl…in your pajamas. Let watching gorgeous people in gorgeous clothing get you inspired for getting dressed in the weeks to come.

DON’T: Miss this blog so much that you don’t enjoy your Fall Break. The Mannequin will be back with a new post next week on a topic that is currently being left under wraps

Post #3: Looking Classic…Classically Preppy That Is

What makes something classic? Is it age? Widespread recognition? Simplicity? While some college students may think of it as a study of the Greco-Roman world, the fashion industry looks at it as that essence that we just can’t get enough of season after season (and decade after decade).  
            Look at most designer brands…what do you see as a common thread? That “classic” era-less look. While in 2003 Louis Vuitton may have put Cherry Blossoms on their classic Monogram Canvas bags and while Burberry may now have their classic pattern on only ten percent of their merchandise, one thing remains the same: that constant reference back to their roots. They go for simplistic “high-class” polish rather than touches of whimsy.
            Similarly one of the competing trends in the Fall 2010 runway shows was the “preppy” look. No, I am not talking about popped collars and Lacoste alligators. Rather, I am talking about that old-school “classic” preppiness that draws us to movies such as Dead Poet’s Society and to designers like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger.
            If you’re still unclear as to what I’m talking about, I advise that you look at the videos for Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2010 Collection, the tone of them is enough to keep you captivated, let alone the clothes that drive it. There is something truly alluring about a man who looks like he has been pulled from an English boarding school (jacket, vest, tie, and an ability to wear argyle) and the girl in a skirt and ivory cardigan that looks like she fits right in with him.  



            So, seeing as how this is a trend, and as I mentioned in my last post, trends are hard to navigate, I thought I’d deliver another list of Dos and Don’ts to get you through the season. To the fashionable young woman: when looking preppy…

DO: Look to classic men’s suits and the men in that Ralph Lauren video for inspiration…try on a men’s button-down for a more laid-back version of this style.
DON’T: Look like a man.

DO: Wear pants. Not leggings, not jeggings, but real pants (look to Chloé’s highly acclaimed Fall Collection for inspiration: http://www.chloe.com/#/collections/ready-to-wear/fall-2010/en)
DON’T: Try to pull off jodhpurs. Leave that to the professionals (models and horseback riders that is). Just because Ralph Lauren thinks he can sell them for $598 does not mean that they’re a good idea.

DO: Wear schoolgirl inspired skirts (check out Urban Outfitters’ Madras by A.P.C. Plaid Skirt for inspiration). Plaid and pleating are both things to look out for…in moderation.  
DON’T: Look like you’re going to a “schoolgirls and professors” party.


DO: Wear letterman jackets and varsity sweaters…feel free to channel Pleasantville.
DON’T: Wear shorts…at Colgate. It’s already getting cold. The shorts and stockings thing is cute, just not in this weather.

DO: Wear chunky knit ivory sweaters, thick scarves, and classic cardigans (like those sold at J. Crew).
DON’T: Look like your mom dressed you.

            But no matter how you choose to go “preppy,” whether it be with a Blair Waldorf headband or a well-fitted blazer, remember to put your own spin on it. Fall Trend reports included subcategories of “neo”-preppy (bright colors and pop-out sweater embellishments), old-school preppy, and a slew of other variations. Whatever you choose to do with this trend, just remember: keep it classy…and maybe even classic.

Post #2: The 90s Are Back

Headline: Fashion has once again called for the return to a previous decade this season—the 90s are back.

           Now, as a child of the 90s, I fondly look back on all of its glories, including Disney Channel Original Movies that were actually good, “Clarissa Explains it All,” “Are You Afraid of the Dark?” and “All That.”  But when fashion looks back on the glories of that same time period, it is not suggesting that you dress like this: 
No, no, instead it’s screaming “grunge” and “Kate Moss!” 

Looking back at the fall ready-to-wear shows that graced the catwalks last spring, more than one designer referenced this well-loved decade. While fashion houses such as Gucci directly referenced the 90s as inspiration, the decade slipped into more than one designer’s clothing creations. For instance, while Rag & Bone’s collection shouted more alpine lumberjack than anything else, their layering of gray and black hues didn’t fail to acknowledge grunge style.
So what does all this mean? Well, be prepared for one fashion trend that will keep you warm and (hopefully) comfy in the lovely Colgate weather that we’re about to have. Just think: flannel is in! Well, it’s in as long as you don’t look like a lumberjack. And layering is especially in. Don’t feel the need to look polished every morning, as dismantling your wardrobe in dark hues is what this trend is all about. Feel free to break out the blacks, grays, and olives in your wardrobe. And feel free to break out a pair of kick-ass black boots along with a leather jacket, as well. But seeing as how trends can be tricky to navigate, I thought I’d give you a few Dos and Don’ts to keep you looking fab and not drab this season. Please,

DO: Embrace edgier pieces like bondage dresses, stockings with intricate details, and leather.  
DON’T: Look like Ke$ha on a bad day.

DO: Wear plaid, flannel, and ripped jeans.
DON’T: Look like a lumberjack.

DO: Be daring and wear sweaters like Urban Outfitters’ Cheap Monday Debbie Sweater.
DON’T: Wear crop tops and see-through t-shirts (some things are meant to go out with the times).

DO: Look to Gucci layers, Dolce & Gabbana sweater dresses, and Rag & Bone for inspiration.
DON’T: Spend all of your money to buy a new wardrobe.

DO:  Shop at American Apparel, Urban Outfitters, and Forever 21.
            DON’T: Let your purchases end up making you look like this: 




But no matter what you choose to do, do it with some polish. The 90s are back, but they’re back with a certain element of class. And for those of you who don’t have any interest in partaking in this trend, remember that there’s more than just this to look forward to in fall fashion.